When those that tentatively support the separatist movement in Santa Cruz, Bolivia make their case, they tend to use words like
"totalitarian", "anti-american" and (of course) "Chavez" in their articles. What they don't mention is the racism so apparent to anyone who has spent more than 48 hours in the region (e.g. Otto).
The basic fact is that these people are screaming racists, and are trying to tear the country apart because they do not like the colour of President Morales' skin. Have a few beers in a Santa Cruz pub with the
good ol' boys, and before long the conversation is peppered with words to describe the indigenous population and President Morales that are not going to appear in this blog ever.
Santa Cruz wants to be ruled by white racists because they are also white racists. A plain, brutal fact. And every single argument they use is built on this racism. They do not want to share the wealth of the region with their nation because of this. They refuse to acknowledge the Presidential mandate because of this. They rally the people in the streets under a white supremacist flag, etc etc etc.
Tomorrow's vote in Bolivia may be a difficult moment for the country, and it may also be difficult for the region. The white leaders of Santa Cruz are using phrases like
"freedom from the llama-herder turned president" and union leaders in Morales supporting zones are
threatening to destroy ballot boxes rather than let the vote they consider "an illegal survey" take place. The indigenous populations are turning to the tactic of abstention to take credence away from the referendum. The national government has apparently withdrawn army security from the voting sites. Opinion polls suggest the white racist voters will win 70% to 75% of the vote.
Bottom line: I hope I'm wrong, and I hope tomorrow goes more smoothly than I imagine no matter what the outcome. In the longer-run, the shrill cries for autonomy are likely to fade as a little realism comes into play. Richard Lapper of the London FT is not my favourite journalist, but
he wrote a good note last week that shows how the game is likely to unfold once things have calmed down.
UPDATE: I've just checked over at my favourite snark site
borev.net, and not only did they beat me to the story and tell it better than than me, they also found
this link that gives you the real feel for Santa Cruz. Highly recommended for those who thought apartheid finished with the Mandela presidency.